Day 79: Prague

JUNE 21 - No rain today so hit the Prague tourist circuit. Wanted to start with Prague castle, since it will take the longest.

It isn’t possible to show a picture of the whole thing, as it sits up on a hill over the city. What is shown in this photo is just the Basilica of St. Vitus.

There was a security check to get in (this wasn’t it).

A more domineering view of the Basilica of St. Vitus. The current form of this church is based on the Gothic reconstruction done by Charles IV in the 14th Century.

The history of the castle obviously mirrors that of the city. The earliest constructions on this hill are thought to have been in about 880 by Prince Bořivoj of the House of Přemyslides. This line of rulers forms the beginning of what is recognized as the first ‘royal’ kings of the region, and they ruled Bohemia and Moravia for almost 400 years before dying out in about 1306.

The next rulers were from the House of Luxembourg (based in France), who ruled until 1437, and brought Bohemia more into the center of international European affairs. The most important king of this royal line was Charles IV, who did a great deal of construction at Prague Castle (as well as other locations in Czechia).

The next occupants were the Polish Jagiellons, who brought Bohemia, and later Hungary, into the possessions of Poland. The Jagiellons figured heavily into the histories of every Polish city we visited previously. Under their dominion, though short, much additional construction was done on the castle complex.

Once the Jagiellon royal line died out in 1526, Bohemia became part of the domain of the Habsburgs. Once again, it was deemed important enough that it was added on to and updated. There was a period of neglect in the 17th Century, when numerous wars passed through the region, and the castle was robbed and damaged. The Habsburgs officially held it until the proclamation of independent Czechoslovakia in 1918.

Since then, a great deal of repair has taken place. Now, at least to me, it appears to be a mega-tourist attraction. The tourist guide groups are everywhere, and we have to push our way around them. Probably a good practice for what we are going to see a lot more of.

Some photos of the inside of the Basilica of St. Vitus:

The tomb of St. John of Nepomuk, as restored by Maria Theresa, queen of Bohemia, in the 1700’s.

After this substantial dose of religious iconography, we head to the St George’s Church, home of the remains of St. Ludmila. Ludmila is an extremely important personage in the early history of Prague. She was married to Prince Bořivoj of the House of Přemyslides, and was present when the first known construction occurred here. She converted to Christianity before Prince Bořivoj did. He died in 890, and she was murdered (by her own wishes) in 921.

Some of the older friezes can still be seen on the walls of St. George’s Church. St. Ludmila’s skull is displayed just once a year, and we didn’t get lucky enough to be here on that day.

There was a weapons museum. The above photo is of a pistol sword, which I don’t see displayed very often. Seems like a great idea, as you can choose whether to stab or shoot. In practice, they don’t work very well, as they are too heavy to aim properly, and too cumbersome as a stabbing/slashing weapon.

There was a street in the castle with mock-ups of living quarters of various occupations. The above is a goldsmith’s workroom (and living quarters), complete with a birdcage (the bird was fake).

Great views of Prague from the hill.

Moved on down the hill from Prague Castle, in the direction of the old town square.

Another of my special series on interesting manhole covers.

Wallenstein Garden. Prague Castle can be seen in the background.

The oddly captivating Dripstone Wall, next to Wallenstein Gardens.

A ritual every tourist must perform in Prague is to cross the Charles Bridge. The name references King Charles IV, who did much restoration work at Prague Castle as mentioned earlier. The bridge was not the first, as wooden bridges had existed in this spot since the 10th Century, and a brick one called the Judith Bridge preceded it (but was destroyed by flooding in 1342). But the Charles Bridge was by far the most substantial, withstanding numerous floods in the many years since it was completed in the 15th Century. Until 1841 it was the only way to cross the Vltava River (besides fording it).

The entrance gate of the Charles Bridge on the western river bank.

The bridge is lined with statues.

The entrance gate on the eastern shore.

Here as well there is a definite opinion being voiced about Vladimir Putin.

From here, head to the old town square.

The Prague Astronomical Clock, installed in 1410, and the oldest such clock still in operation in the world.

The Church of Our Lady Before Tyn, with the Marian Column in the foreground.

Czech Republic