Sept 25 - Out early to figure out where I can organize a day trip I wanted to do. No luck, as that particular bus line is no longer operating. The streets leading from our room to Liberty Square are blocked off to traffic, as there is a footrace being run. A few marching bands are playing and there is a dj at the finish line by the National Museum.
Run across a memorial to fallen soldiers in the Ukraine war. This spot appeared to be all Georgian citizens, while the other side were all Belorussians. Walking around Tbilisi, I realize that we are now seeing some Ukrainian flags again. I don’t remember seeing any since Croatia or perhaps even before that.
The Mtkvari River flows through the middle of town.
The futuristic Bridge of Peace. It is for pedestrians only, and features a light display at night.
Take the small Tbilisi Cable Car from the edge of the river up to Narikala Fortress on the south side of old town. It is a bright sunny day, and windy as usual.
Odette really wanted to pet the hawk. His name was George.
Part of the ruined fortifications. Though this hilltop shows evidence of habitation much earlier, the historical record shows the first fortifications were built under King Varaz-Bakur (about 360 CE). Many groups have occupied it since, including the Persians and Ottomans. An earthquake in 1827 destroyed it thoroughly enough that it was never repaired.
A view down the back of the cliff of Narikala Fortress, into the Botanical Garden.
Looking down over Tbilisi. Such a mix of old and new.
Back down on the cable car, and across Freedom Square to Metekhi St. Virgin Church. It is built on a cliff wall over the river.
The church was built between 1278-89, during the reign of Demetrius II. The blocks in the walls are of the brown sandstone so common around here, and are heavily worn from age.
The church, on the left, was meant to appear as a natural growth on the top of the cliff. View from the cable car.
Being Sunday, there were some baptisms going on in Metekhi. A huge crowd at the door was waiting to start a wedding as soon as this was done.
The little girl should get a gold star. She was so patient, just doing what she was supposed to, while dressed in a wet towel.
Below Metekhi Church as a little chapel, just at the river edge.
From here we crossed the river again, looking for a way into the Botanical Garden (since both entrances from Narikala Fortress were blocked off). Did find another entrance.
On the way up, pass the only mosque left in Tbilisi. Muslims make up about 10% of Georgians (virtually all the rest are Orthodox Christian), and many of those Muslims live in the region bordering Türkiye. Not many mosques survived the departure of the Ottomans.
Juma Mosque, with a single, unusually styled minaret.
The Botanical Garden was basic but a pleasant walk. Always one of Odette’s favorite things to do.
I rarely see frogs actually sitting on lilypads.
This was called, rather unimaginatively, The Botanical Waterfall.
Under some old walls was some good sedimentary geology. Exposed are some shales and other finely grained beds.
Good view of the Narikala Fortress and St. Nicholas’ Orthodox Church.
On the west side of the old city is an area with many thermal baths. In fact, the name ‘Tbilisi’ in part means hot water. Many of them line this stream exiting the botanical gardens.
Went into a pharmacy, and was taken aback by the overpowering smell of spices. There were two parts to the store: the pill section, and another bunch of shelves with many bags of herbal cures.
Janet and Odette head back to the room, and I get down to the Georgian National Museum. It is housed in a huge old building, as they usually are. Because it is close to closing time, I head down to the basement, where they keep the gold jewelry and coins.
The Goblet of Trialeti. This is a copy, but the real one is here as well (the lighting wasn’t as good for a photo). This amazing example of goldsmithing and polychrome artistry. It was produced by the Early Barrows (Trialeti-Vanadzor) culture (late 3rd to early 2nd millennia BCE). A real feat for such an early time period. Gold objects were produced in large quantities in Georgia up to about the end of the 2nd millennia BCE, and the art was not to return for a thousand years.
A finely detailed gold necklace, with tortoises.
Upstairs was the recent history section, which is predictably full of invasions and repression by such actors as the Ottomans and Soviets. My time ran out (closing time) and could not get through much of it. There was one memorable quote here, spoken at a time when Georgians were expressing great frustration at the crushing of their freedom by the Soviets:
“…what do we have to offer to the cultural treasure of the European nations? The two-thousand year old national culture, democratic system and natural wealth.
Soviet Russia offered us military alliance, which we rejected. We have taken different paths. They are heading for the East and we, for the West.
We would like to yell at Russian Bolsheviks: Turn to the West to make a contemporary European nation…”
Noe Zhordania, Head of the Government of the Democratic Republic of Georgia.
Speech made at the Extraordinary Session of the Constituent Assembly on January 27, 1921.
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