Day 185: Batumi

Oct 5 - Another day of heavy rain. Go to the bus stop for the #16. There is an old woman crossing the street here, not at the crosswalk, moving so slow that the traffic has to wait a few minutes. It reminds me of similar incidents I saw in the Balkans. We squeeze on board and head 15 km south of town to Gonio Fortress. There are many stops and the bus fills to the point where people no longer can get on.

Gonio fortress sits slightly inland, on the north side of the Chorokhi River. As a fortification, it was recorded by Pliny the Elder in the 1st Century CE. It protected a route heading inland along the river valley. It is almost square in shape, with thick walls that were upgraded in Byzantine and later Ottoman times, indicating the importance of this location as a coastal defense. The walls are impressive, with the remains of large towers at each corner and a few along the sides.

Overall, the walls of this fortress are well preserved. The enclosed space, however, shows only some traces of foundations, and I’m sure these are a mix of structures emplaced over many centuries. There is a mock-up of a Roman legion camp, and a catapult. For kids learning Roman history, this would be a good place to visit.

Supposedly the tomb of St. Matthias (one of the twelve apostles) is here, but the suspected location is off limits to excavation. That in itself is suspicious.

Hang around for the #16 bus back, barely find a way to get on. It remains very crowded all the way back to downtown Batumi. Eat at a Turkish buffet restaurant and go back to the historical district.

After another trip to the stormy beach, retreat to our apartment. We are soaked by now, and want to dry stuff off before packing for tomorrow. Arrange a ride to the airport for early.