Sept 20 - Morning of administrational concerns, which includes standing in line. Once done with this, we stop by the Tomb and Cemetery of Sultan Mahmud II. It was founded by Sultan Abdulmecid (his son) in 1839, and originally was meant to be just for his father. But over time, other sultans ended up being buried there, as well as some notable statesmen, authors, and poets.
The building is the background hosts the tombs of various sultans.
Most gravemarkers show dates in the late 1800’s to early 1900’s.
Sarcophagus of Sultan Abdulhamid II (r. 1876-1909). He was the last Ottoman sultan to effectively control the government, and during his reign, saw the profound weaknesses that would lead to the dissolution of the empire.
A few other sarcophagi, along with a chandelier gifted by Queen Victoria.
Back down to the main plaza. Intend to see Topkapi Palace, but it is closed today. See some other sites in the immediate area instead.
The German Fountain, called so as it was dedicated to the second visit of the Prussian King and German Emperor Wilhelm II in 1898, as a symbol of political friendship between the two powers.
Outside the Topkapi Palace is a large, intricate structure called the Fountain of Ahmed III.
It was built on the orders of Sultan Ahmed III in 1729, to replace a Byzantine fountain that previously occupied this spot. The style is Turkish rococo.
On to the the archaeological museum, which sits outside the north wall of Topkapi. Buy a combined ticket for 100 lira for this and the nearby Tiled Palace Pavilion. The Museum of the Ancient Orient is on site but closed.
The museum entrance.
A funerary stele from Thrace, 6th Century BCE. I don’t know if the subtle resemblance to Pharaonic scenes is coincidental or because of Egyptian artistic influence.
There were several room dedicated to marble sarcophagi, some of them truly immense. This one, discovered in the late 1800’s, is for an unknown but obviously very important occupant. The story on this one is that the cherub head (top left), was removed and taken by the discoverer (British) to his house for many years. It returned only recently, bequeathed by his children to the Turkish government.
Called the Sarcophagus of Alexander the Great, it is actually for a king of Sidon (in the Levant). However, it does depict various battle scenes of Alexander.
A caryatid column (1st Century BCE) from Aydin (near the Aegean Coast). Several examples of this type act as supports for the Erechtheion, next to the Acropolis in Athens, Greece.
An awesome statue of Roman Emperor Hadrian (r. 117-138 CE), using some poor sod as a footstool. It is about three meters in height.
Yesterday (Day 169) I described a copper column of snakes that was brought here from Delphi, Greece. This is the only known remaining snake head, now detached from the column.
One last photo from the room of funerary stele. This one, from Mytilene, Lesbos, and made in the 2nd to 3rd Century CE, is dedicated to a dog.
The inscription on this reads: “His owner has buried the dog Parthenope, that he played with, in gratitude for this happiness. [Mutual] love is rewarding, like the one for this dog: Having been a friend to my owner, I have reversed this grave: Looking at this, find yourself a worthy friend who is both, ready to love you while you are still alive and will care for your body [when you die].”
There was one room for coins. It was separated into four parts: (1) Greek/Eastern Greek, (2) Roman, (3) hoards from Istanbul, and (4) Byzantine. The most impressive were the hoards, which included some really early gold in amazing condition.
Some Ptolemaic, Seleucid, and some other eastern Greek coins.
Across from this museum was the Tiled Palace Pavilion. This structure dates to 1472 and was built by Sultan Mehmet II.
It is also called the ‘Tiled Kiosk’.
True to its name, it specializes in abundant tile work, much of it in hues of blue.
Each room has its own artistic style.
A detail on the above room wall. The gold color is painted gold leaf, much of it being retouched over the years.
Today we are able to meet up with a Peter Vogelaar and his wife Shannon. He is a friend from high school in Cairo, Egypt, though he graduated a year before me (1984). We met them at an Indian restaurant in Sultanahmet, with a view over the Hagia Sophia. Not our usual type of restaurant experience!
I haven’t seen Pete since 2000, so we had plenty to talk about. They have lived here for ten years, and have seen a lot of changes in Istanbul. I will be relaying some of his experiences and thoughts as they pertain to places we go over the next few months.
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