Nov 26 - It is definitely winter today in Van. The sidewalks are muddy and the misty humidity clings everywhere. It is Saturday and the crowds are out anyway, men typically with black winter jackets and black pants, women with some version of head scarf, all the way to niqabs (featureless full body covering with a slit for the eyes). A few women are “bare headed”, but far less than is commonly seen in western Türkiye. Big shopping day, as we find out when we venture into one of the largest mall complexes. Even the pharmacy seems crazed, with a huge line for the cash register. Eat some pasta, and actually I can’t remember when we last had some. But a few supplies and make an extensive search for an ATM with the lowest commission to get Turkish lira (our preferred bank machine is nowhere to be found in this town).
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I do some reservations and visa applications, then go on another search for a photocopy center. It is surprisingly difficult to find one. Business offering computer and phone related technical services are everywhere, but simple photocopy machines are not.
Try to get inside the oldest mosque in Van, but the doors are closed and people are praying out in the hallways.
Most of modern Van is recent, with almost no historically interesting buildings. Part of this is due to a large earthquake that occurred in 2011. It was a magnitude 7.1 and caused over 600 fatalities. It destroyed many buildings in the city, including the museum (which is why the one they have now is so new). We are told that many people moved outside their homes to live in tents after the quake, too traumatized to remain indoors despite the cold weather. Others moved away altogether.
The door slamming and extended hallway conversations are much more subdued tonight. Perhaps some people have already gone back to Iran, or are tired out.
Türkiye III