APRIL 20 - Pull into the port of Holyhead about 11:30. Make our way through the lower intestine that is the traffic routing out of the port. Again, no passport check. Can see the rounded peaks of Snowdonia in the distance, as we pass fields similar to those we just saw in southern Ireland. The difference is the houses, as very few here are in stone. There is, in general, a more modern feel to the towns we pass through. Stop at Conwy Castle and walk a few of the ramparts.
Conwy Castle, built 1283 to 1287 under Edward I, this intimidating fortress, and its town-enclosing ramparts were built to stifle Welsh resistance to English rule. It is only one of four such structures in the region, all of which are now World Heritage Sites.
Today’s route, once off the ferry. (A) Holyhead, (B) Conwy Castle, (C) Conwy Water Gardens, and (D) Caernarfon.
South of the city Conwy are the Conwy Water Gardens. I directed us here specifically because of the resident Dutch Pancake House. Odette has been asking about pancakes for over a week. The grounds include a number of ponds with various animals, including otters and cabybaras (all hiding today). Also here is an ‘aquarium’, which turned out to be a shop selling tropical fish.
From here, south along the east side of the Menai Straits to the city of Caernarfon. This town is immediately likeable. We squeeze the car through a narrow gate in the old city walls and miraculously find parking near our hotel, Totter’s Hostel. We are one block from Caernarfon Castle, another World Heritage Site and part of Edward I’s ring of castles in the region.
This intimidating tower was build with an octagonal floor plan. Apparently the king was inspired to do this by towers in Constantinople. Note the relic of an older tower corner poking out. This structure was a block away from our hostel.
A street in the old part of Caernarfon. It is 18:00 and most stores are closed. Just the bars open, with everyone outside enjoying the sun, even the group of four drunks, cursing on a park bench by the church.
Odette’ first language lesson today, how to say ‘thank you’ in Welsh:
