Day 19: Caernarfon and Anglesey Island

APRIL 22 - This morning we walk five minutes to check out Caernarfon Castle. Like Conwy Castle (Day 17b), this one one of the fortresses constructed by Edward I in 1283-87. The idea was to bring Wales under English control through physically occupying some of the best defensive positions.

The castle itself occupies the southwest corner of the old city, which was also enclosed with a defensive wall.

A view from the castle up the Afon Seiont (Seiont River), at low tide.

A view to one of the three tallest towers, looking out over the Menai Straits. There are many spiral staircases up every part of these towers. Note the Welsh flag, a red dragon on a field of green. No one is completely sure how this symbol came about. There is conjecture that it derives from Roman times, as a military standard used for a regiment stationed here.

The Medal Museum, housed within one of the towers, was a real bonus that I was not expecting. It held a vast array of military medals, from Waterloo up to the Korean War. I though Odette would last a few minutes in here but she stayed entertained for almost an hour.

The day prior, we were just driving out to Snowdonia when we passed City Hall and saw a man in military costume leading a goat, also adorned. By the time I found parking and we went back to look, they had left the scene. I had no idea what this was about until today. The Royal Welsh Fusiliers have traditionally (since 1777) had a goat as a member of the regiment. One even went to take part in the Crimean War (1853-56). The goat we saw was being paraded around probably due to it being the Queen’s birthday. The fake one shown is the best I can do for a photo.

Gruffudd ap Cynan, King of Gwynedd (1081-1137). An important king of Wales before the land was subdued by the English. He defeated many rivals and united much of Wales, and held the title ‘Prince of Wales’.

As discussed previously, Edward I (r. 1272-1307) was instrumental in assimilating Wales into his dominion. He spent time in the newly constructed Caernarfon Castle with his wife, Queen Eleanor of Castile. Of the 16 offspring she produced in her 49 years, only six would outlive her, and of those, only one was a son. This son, Edward II, was coincidentally born in this castle (his father may have intentionally maneuvered this), and would become the first Prince of Wales to originate from the royal English bloodline. It was a carefully arranged solution that would bring Wales fully in line with England’s wishes. This began the tradition of granting the title to the English royal family. The last such event to be held in this castle was in 1969, during the Investiture of Prince Charles (meaning his formal presentation to the Welsh people as their prince).

FUN FACT: Edward I commanded a series of twelve crosses (like little spires) constructed for Eleanor when she died, scattered from Lincolnshire to London. On Day 1 we saw the one near Trafalgar Square.

A side doorway at Caernarfon Castle. We have one just like it in the basement of our hotel.

The most interesting bit of what remains of a Roman fort east of Caernarfon called Segontium. This fort was originally quite large, and was critical for maintaining Roman rule over the western part of Britain. It was constructed by Gnaeus Julius Agricola in 77 CE, after he had put down a local rebellion, and lasted until the dissolution of Roman rule in the region in about 400 CE. Some of the foundations are clearly under residential homes nearby.

So, to tie some of these things together, apparently Edward I’s inspiration for a fortress at Caernarfon stems from a legend involving Segontium. It is known as the Dream of Macsen Wledig. In short, the legend states that a Roman emperor had a dream about a beautiful maiden in Britain named Elen. He sent messengers to find her, and when they finally did so in northern Wales, she refused to return to Rome with them, saying that this emperor must come to her. He did so, and spent seven years in her realm, marrying her and building towns, including one at Caernarfon (presumably this would have been Segontium).

To tease some actual historical information out of this, the Welsh name Macsen Wledig refers to the (western) Roman Emperor Magnus Maximus (r. 383-88 CE). Ironically, the death of this emperor, during an attempt to invade Italy proper, led to the loss of Britain as part of the Roman Empire. The seven years dallying in northern Wales is a bit of a stretch, given his total rule was six years. But the whole timing of it is quite good, with 388 CE coinciding so well with the complete loss of Roman authority in Britain. After this, Britons and Romano-Britons alike were on their own to forge a new path.

Drive up and across the bridge to Anglesey Island, where there is a small aquarium (the ‘Sea Zoo’).

Cuttlefish can’t help but look cute.

Have a long talk with a Welsh grandfather, from Holyhead. He laments the lack of employment in Wales, and wonders where all that tourist money goes. He talks about ‘the island’ (Anglesey) as though it is somewhere far from the rest of Wales, even though we can both see it in detail across the narrow straits. I ask him if Wales should have a referendum for autonomy, like Scotland did a few years back, and he says there is no way Wales could support itself. Maybe that should be obvious to me but since I’m a foreigner I can get away with asking dumb questions. These types of inquiries usually get interesting responses, and keep people engaged in conversation. He also mentions that the housing is overpriced, specifically because Wales is a favored destination for retirees from places like London.

Some curry for dinner in Bengal Spice, one of the three Indian restaurants in town.

United Kingdom (Wales)United Kingdom (England) II