July 3—The trains are supposedly on strike, but this applies only to certain unions and train lines. It is confusing and impossible to know which train is running. I decide we will take a chance and go by train to Sintra, an hour west.
Sintra is one of the biggest tourist draws in Portugal, so we head out early (8:00 train). Turns out this one is not on strike, at least not this early in the morning. Very pleasant to ride on an almost empty carriage for once. Arrive in the quiet Sintra station.
Find a ticket office selling entrance to one of many attractions in the hills above Sintra. Our luck seems to run out when the seller informs us that she can not book anything for Pena Palace today as all the spaces are filled up. However, she does toss out the idea of going to Sintra Palace, a 10-minute walk away, and trying them for tickets (as they have direct access to the official booking site for all sites in the park).
We walk up the hill to Sintra, and indeed they have tickets for Pena. We get a combo entry for both.
Sintra Palace probably dates from the 10th century, during Moorish rule. No one is sure, because that original structure has been erased through innumerable modifications. It gradually became the center of the Portuguese lands, and a preferred refuge of royalty from the hotter summers in the lowlands, and distance from large populations during the many plagues.
We spend over an hour perusing the rooms, each set with their dominant epochs.
Besides the tilework, I note that Sintra is sparing in elaborate decor. That may result from many household items being removed over the years. As seen in the geometric ceiling design in the above room, there is also an element of Arab influence. This is an interesting and deeply ingrained aspect of Portuguese design. Though the region of Portugal was purged of Muslims by the 13th century and their mosques destroyed, something of their art remained.
On to Pena Palace. This is by far the most popular destination here, and also not simple to get to. While Sintra Palace can be walked to from the train station, Pena requires a bus that winds up narrow roads already choked with traffic. I understand now why private vehicles (visitor cars, at least) are not permitted the park surrounding these attractions. The roads are narrow and there is no parking. It takes our bus 40 minutes to get up to the entrance gate for Pena.
We have a timed ticket, so have to gauge what time to enter the gate and walk up the long, steep hill to the structure, so that we are in line on time. All of this would seem excessive were it not obvious that the reams of tourists would cause complete chaos if allowed to enter at will.
This structure dates back to the reign of King Manuel I, who turned a small chapel on this hill into the Monastery of Our Lady of Pena. The earthquake of 1755 did not cause enough damage to shut it down, and it continued to 1834, when religious orders were banned in Portugal.
In 1836, King consort Ferdinand II (of Queen Maria II) purchased the building and began creating the work of art seen today. Much artistic license was used in creating the dramatic towers, turrets, and domes, because it was never intended to be used defensively.
It became a summer refuge for the kings following Queen Maria II, who died in 1853.
Ferdinand II also created a large gardens around Pena Palace, with exotic plants and trees.
Fortunately for us, the train line is still not on strike when we return to Lisbon. Take a steep tramway up the side of a hill and walk through a park filled with chickens.