July 20 - Rain most of the night, the first we’ve had since Milan. Mountain fog in the morning, wait a bit to see if it will stop, and when it doesn’t, decide to head out anyway. Take the road straight up a narrow, linear valley to the north. It must trace a fault or a regional plane of weakness.
A lot of rain on the way up, and plenty of switchbacks. Fortunately traffic is light due to the weather. At the parking lot of Portela do Homem (the border with Spain) we take a small trail going down the valley and over to see another waterfall (Cascata da Portela do Homem). Up this high, there is a greater average humitidy, and more mosses growing on the trees and rocks.
From here we hike downstream for about 30 minutes. In the misty, dense clouds, it feels like the perfect time to be there.
Back down the switchbacks to our hotel, then decide to visit the lake (albufeira da Caniçada). Still a bit dark and cloudy, not many people about and we find a 3-person kayak rental to paddle around for an hour.
