Apr 18 - After finding some breakfast things at a nearby store, we are off to the airport. Ditch the roller bag and Odette’s backpack at the hotel, which we will return to in four days.
I was not sure what size airplane we would be on today, but turns out to be a medium-sized prop jet. Half hour flight, barely get to altitude before down again in the verdant beauty of Gunung Mulu NP.
We fly low over the jungle. Even though it is clear, the view is not great, not sure what is causing it. Saw this same thing in Thailand when we flew out from there. There is one river to the east that does not meander smoothly but at sharp angles. I’m sure this is an effect of the fold belt we are passing over.
Gunung Mulu NP sits right up against the border of Brunei on the southeast side. Only the northwest part of the park is flat, the rest gains elevation rapidly, through a sequence of limestones followed by Cretaceous sandstones.
Odette all impressed with this little plane, and our landing at the quiet Mulu Airport runway. Walk the ten minutes to AA Homestay, though it is rather hot. The homestay itself is less than a five-minute walk from the entrance to the national park. Electricity runs from 18:00 to midnight, and there is no wi-fi. The host family fixes us a lunch and we walk to the park.
It is quite well organized, with signs directing hikers to various trails. We take the one to Paku Waterfall. It is about 1.5 hours to get there.
Our only comparison (in Sarawak) to this bit of jungle is Gunung Gading. Here seems denser, both with vegetation and animal life. There are several distinct species of cicadas, some of which are extremely loud. Insect life other than this is also rich. Don’t see much for birds, but this is more a function of how far ahead of us we can see.
The principal trail routes are elevated and well-constructed, making it easy to quickly cover a lot of ground. Only when we take a side trail leading to the waterfall does it get rougher.
The waterfall underwhelms Janet. It is just a few trickles coming out from a cleft in the limestone into the river. What is more striking is the sheer cliff of limestone behind it. There is a slight overhang in this rock about 50 meters above, where I can see at least eight large bee or wasp nests.
As it is very hot today, the river is a very welcome way to cool off. The bottom is mixed gravel and mud, so it isn’t just a big mess to go in. Small fish peck at our feet and legs.
Back to the park entrance, it starts raining so we sit around waiting for it to abate. Then back to the homestay where it is still unbearably hot in the rooms but by now, they’ve turned on the electricity. We hurriedly start charging the electronics and can use the fans.
Cicadas and other insects begin to populate the common area (there are only basic metal grates for windows in the common room and dining area). One of the cicadas that enters is the largest I’ve ever seen.
Once the power goes off, it’s a bit tough getting to sleep. The humidity is high and cockroaches are all over the floor. I can hear them scurrying around.
Malaysia (Sarawak)