Jan 29 - KL is in the middle of leaping from a 1990’s city to a 2020’s city. Everywhere are the building cranes, flattening old apartment blocks and putting up high rises. We can see the juxtaposition of it all from our apartment window. But unlike Jeddah, it is happening in little pockets all around downtown. Also very unlike Jeddah, there is a vast, spaghetti-like mass transit system, consisting of underground metros, elevated trams, and buses. Little of it is well integrated, and to compensate, elevated walkways, escalators, and signs attempt to direct people from one station to another. At first it is an entirely intimidating task to figure out how to get from Point A to B without succumbing to the waiting clutches of taxi drivers. First order of business is to find a currency exchange facility, which happily changes my $80 worth of rufiyaah so now I can be rid of it.
KL began as a trading post, mostly due to the nearby tin mining sites, and dates to about 1857. It is strategically located at the convergence of two rivers, and this kept it growing, despite the swampiness of the surrounding area. The rubber boom later on assured its importance and it eventually ascended to become the capital city. These days, though tin mining is mostly gone, rubber still factors into a list of the top exports. However, it has been eclipsed by petroleum, palm oils, and electrical machinery.
Start today by figuring out the elevated tramway system and going to Perdana Botanical Garden. But because the bus is difficult to work out for the last bit, we end up in an infernal taxi, who talks about coupons, won’t use his taximeter, and in the end it is just a cash payment. Enter the Bird Park for about 200 ringgit. I was really hoping to see a rhinoceros hornbill here, but alas, many other hornbills but not that one were present.
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The Perdana Botanical Garden is a huge place, with many smaller theme gardens within it. It is all fairly walkable, but with limited food options. We wander around for awhile before encountering a cafe with some fish balls and other small snacks. Then to the numerous things to see around the main lake (Tasik Perdana).
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While at the Bamboo Playhouse, we meet a Malaysian family and Odette starts to play with their three-year old. We all talk for a bit, they are curious as to what we are up to, perhaps because we aren’t dressed like normal tourists. They carry on conversation in a really quiet, relaxed way. John talks about how he has lived in smaller Malaysian cities but the real opportunities for both he and his wife to work ended up being in KL. Their son (Jordan) is already being taught Malay, English, and Chinese at school.
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Figure out a more efficient way to get back to Berjaya Times Square, and walk through a few of the vibrant streets of downtown. There is a dance club in full swing at 18:00, doors wide open so you can see what you are missing. The food vendors are everywhere, crowding the sidewalk, and all around there are touts for various restaurants and stores, kindly suggesting we go and buy something. Again, just the pure sensory overload you get from here can be intoxicating. We go back to our food court and try a different place. Back to the room only by about 21:00. From about midnight there are fireworks again for the Chinese New Year.
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