JULY 29 - Wash clothes and otherwise deal with our stuff in the morning. We are on the 8th floor, so have a great view of the harbor on the north side, where all the real shipping takes place, as well as a trace of the Dinaric Alps.
At noon we quickly find food in the old city, then down the waterfront in search of the #12 bus. This is the only line that goes around most of Park Šuma Marjan, a thickly forested area at the end of the peninsula. The park is also a steep hill, entirely of limestone like everywhere in this region. Pass by Kasjuni Beach, which I’m guessing is very popular judged by the number of sunburnt bathers hanging around the bus stop. The bus route ends at Bene Beach on the north side. It is not really accurate to call it a beach, as the only way to get into the ocean is over rocks or at concrete platforms built out into the surf. Despite this, like every point of even moderately easy access to the ocean, it is packed with people. The bodies lie slumped in rental lounge chairs on the cement slabs, ordering beer after beer, while the techno beat wafts from the nearby bar. Fortunately, I do see one other family with kids, so it isn’t just purely a oceanside rave.
Take Odette out for her second snorkel adventure. The hesitation I sometimes see in her while doing other new things disappears completely with snorkeling. She jumps right in, diving down to look at things more closely, and I just swim alongside to act as her buddy. Here there is little sand on the sea floor, just rocks and plenty of sea grass.
The return bus to the waterfront is completely packed, as everyone is heading back downtown to drink some more beer. I have Odette give up her seat for an old lady, and the lady says something in Croatian and pats her on the shoulder. While this be common here, Odette is startled and confused by the gesture.