Day 137: Nikšić

Aug 18 - Odette does plenty of schoolwork this morning. I real shock to the system after a few months of only journal writing and some map reading. And, I suppose, PE classes, at least a lot of walking, rarely less than 5 km a day, and sometimes more than 14 km. This always seems to include a lot of stairs, whether they be getting up to our lodgings, or in castles, forts, and museums.

I’ve entitled this part of the trip ‘The Balkans’, and included, up to now, all countries within the border of the former Yugoslavia. The name ‘Balkan’ was not a word anyone within the region called themselves, but rather a word used to describe the region by outsiders. The word is Turkish and means ‘mountains’. It was subsequently used in 1808 by a German geographer and the region was henceforth called the Balkan Peninsula. He mistakenly assumed that the ‘Balkan’ mountains extended all the way from the Adriatic to the Black Sea.

Within the Balkans, of course, there is a great deal of argument about where the ‘Balkan’ part really exists. It has been connected with negative connotations since its inception, so naturally no one wants to claim it. Internationally, the region is probably known best for ethnic conflict and lack of perceived modern development. Prior to Ukraine in March 2022, the last war fought on European soil was 1991-96 in and between various ‘Balkan’ nations.

While not all the land of the former Yugoslavia is mountainous, it seems appropriate to me that the name Balkans does refer to mountainous geography. It impressed the Romans, and made conquest a real difficulty. There is a certain logic to the way ethnic and religious groups have divided into such a finely granular mix, given the challenging terrain the people have inhabited for the last 2000 years or so. Add to this the unfortunate circumstance of sitting between the classic ‘East vs. West’ spheres of influence, and it is not hard to see how complicated the task would be to create viable, harmonious 20th Century style nation-states from it.

Go into town, looking for a place to change some different currencies I have, but the banks are unwilling. We eat a huge lunch for less than $20. Then head to the west side of town to see the Ramparts of Onogošt.

The fortress of Onogost is thought (but not proven) to be the site of a Roman fortified camp from the 4th Century. This is based on the shape of the older foundations. The site of present-day Nikšić is also mentioned in Roman records, meaning that it is certain that they did construct something in the area.

The fortress has been used by many groups since, the most notable being the Ottomans, who rebuilt much of it and used it up until the end of their occupation in 1877.

Behind us is the highest tower, which has a good view over the valley.

These pictures show just the parts that are the most interesting. The site has not been taken care of and is a real mess. Perhaps the prospect of Nikšić becoming more of a tourist destination will breath some life into the idea of preserving it.

Montenegro