Day 154: Ohrid

Sept 4 - Head to the highest point in Ohrid, where the nucleus of the old town was.

The old town is accessible by only one gate, and traffic restricted to those actually living inside the historic district (and the occupants of the many hotels there). Everything is dominated by the castle, seen in the background above.

Historical records talk about Lake Ohrid (then called Lychnidos), in discussion of Philip II of Macedon*, and his intention to build a fortification on this hill. Another mention of the town is by Livy in 209 BCE, when it is stated that fortifications were strengthened. Again a mention in 478 CE, when the Ostrogothic King Theodoric failed to take the city in his campaign to conquer Epirus.

Much of what is visible today dates back to only the late Byzantine period. In particular Emperor Samuel (976-1014), with later repair and expansion by the Slavs and Ottomans.

*Philip II was Alexander the Great’s father.

Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon, heavily restored, and with a good view over the lake.

The remains of a Baptistry near the church have some well preserved floor mosaics.

I do not know what this columnated area is about, as there was almost no explanation anywhere here. Archaeological work started here in 2000 and is ongoing, with the shells of buildings covering the more sensitive excavations.

The entrance to what is now called ‘Samuel’s Fortress’, as per the above historical description.

It was possible to walk many of the ramparts of the fortress, which has a commanding view of all surrounding terrain.

The old town (foreground) and modern downtown Ohrid in the background.

There were a number of weddings going on today (Sunday), and one group was taking photos outside the Holy Mary Perybleptos.

Someone at the right edge of the photo is carrying the old Macedonian flag. It is a tradition at weddings that the flag be present.

Waiting around for the photo shoot to start. The man in the white shirt has a yellow towel over his shoulder. Most of the male participants present had one.

Cathedral Church of St. Sofia.

Inside the St. Sofia Church there were plenty of old frescoes, at least partially if not fully preserved.

Some archways behind the Church of St. Sofia.

Walking west from here along the lake edge leads to a long wooden bridge that hugs the shore, then to a thin area with gravel beaches and small hotels. At the end of this is the Church of St. John the Theologian.

This place was crammed with people, many of whom were involved in yet another wedding photo shoot.

Back to downtown by the lake, there are some smartly kept gardens and potted flowers.

North Macedonia