Day 3: Seoul

Start day with trip to Changdeokgung Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its just one stop east on the Line 3 metro. Built shortly after the nearby Gyeongbokgung Palace, it served as a secondary royal residence. It was burnt down by the Japanese in 1592. Upon rebuilding it, King Seonjo decided to adopt it as the official royal residence. Burnt down again during a revolt in 1623, rebuilt again in 1647. Served as royal residence until the death of the last Joseon Dynasty emperor (King Sunjong) in 1926.

The Secret Garden (Huwon)

To the west of Changdeokgung is a hanok district, where traditional architecture dominates. It is heavily touristed, but is largely populated by private residences. Here we again found a small eatery for rice and udon. Remember to shout “Gam sah ap nida!” (thank you) when you leave after the meal. The owners will shout it at you as well. Some of the hanok residences are open for tourists to have a look around.

Is she happy, tired, or bored? Who knows.

Yes, this chair has no legs.

A typcal store in the hanok district.

Mix of old and new architecture.

On the metro exit to Gyeonbokgung Palace, we are accosted by a university student (James) acting as a free tour guide (this appears to be so that he can get class credit). We spend the next few hours with him, walking the extensive grounds of the palace. It was originally constructed in 1395, destroyed in 1592 by the Japanese, lay in ruins until 1868, when King Gojong reconstructed it and in the process depleted most of the state funds. We note the abundance of Korean visitors, many dressed in traditional clothes (Hanbok). There is no entrance fee for those going to the trouble of doing so, though this weekend happens to be Independence Day weekend so entry is free anyway.

Main entrance building for Gyeonbokgung, behind which is another building that served as residence of the king. FUN FACT: the residence had nine rooms, and the king slept in a random room each night. In the other eight rooms slept ‘dummies’. Hence, if assassins entered at night and killed one person, there was only 1 out of 9 chances that it would be the king.

These copper tubs were filled with water and used in case of fire. Based on the history of these palaces, this precaution didn’t always work.

Girls at Gyeongbukgung Palace in Hanbok costume

This entrance ticket depicts a common symbolic scene at the palaces, normally on a painting hung behind the throne. The main elements are: White ball (king), red ball (queen), mountains (land of Korea), pine trees (royal officials), and water (The People).

In the late afternoon, we go south through town on the metro and pop out at Myeongdong, a district with many anime-related stores, and base of hill that goes to Seoul Tower.

We ended up walking up many flights of stairs to the cable car entrance. It was Saturday night, so we weren’t the only ones going up. It took an hour to get a ride. A lot of restaurants and entertainment complexes here, and yes, a million love locks on all guardrails and any other available spot. I could not find the Hello Kitty Playground! At least we saw the statues of Yoo Hoo & Friends.

Later on, wanted to see the Namdaemun (night) Market, but everything was closed up, perhaps because of Independence Day. Get back to hotel late.

South Korea