Day 3: Seoul

Start day with trip to Changdeokgung Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its just one stop east on the Line 3 metro. Built shortly after the nearby Gyeongbokgung Palace, it served as a secondary royal residence. It was burnt down by the Japanese in 1592. Upon rebuilding it, King Seonjo decided to adopt it as the official royal residence. Burnt down again during a revolt in 1623, rebuilt again in 1647. Served as royal residence until the death of the last Joseon Dynasty emperor (King Sunjong) in 1926.

To the west of Changdeokgung is a hanok district, where traditional architecture dominates. It is heavily touristed, but is largely populated by private residences. Here we again found a small eatery for rice and udon. Remember to shout “Gam sah ap nida!” (thank you) when you leave after the meal. The owners will shout it at you as well. Some of the hanok residences are open for tourists to have a look around.

On the metro exit to Gyeonbokgung Palace, we are accosted by a university student (James) acting as a free tour guide (this appears to be so that he can get class credit). We spend the next few hours with him, walking the extensive grounds of the palace. It was originally constructed in 1395, destroyed in 1592 by the Japanese, lay in ruins until 1868, when King Gojong reconstructed it and in the process depleted most of the state funds. We note the abundance of Korean visitors, many dressed in traditional clothes (Hanbok). There is no entrance fee for those going to the trouble of doing so, though this weekend happens to be Independence Day weekend so entry is free anyway.

In the late afternoon, we go south through town on the metro and pop out at Myeongdong, a district with many anime-related stores, and base of hill that goes to Seoul Tower.

Later on, wanted to see the Namdaemun (night) Market, but everything was closed up, perhaps because of Independence Day. Get back to hotel late.