Day 70: Hel Peninsula

JUNE 12 - Good weather today so head out of town on another day trip. Take the train for 20 minutes northwest to the city of Gdynia.

The port of Gdynia, as seen from the ferry. This city grew up primarily due to its importance as a sea port. During the many years that Gdańsk (Danzig) was its own master, Poland developed this town as a way around being dependent on a foreign power for seaborne trade.

Today’s route: Gdańsk to Gdynia by train, then Gdynia to Hel by ferry. Return journey was along the same path.

Kind of expensive to get the ferry; a return journey (1 hour each ride) was 290 złoty for the three of us. It is Sunday, so plenty of local holidaymakers going out. Calm seas and plenty of container ships on the horizon.

Hel Peninsula is a very long spit, like the Curonian Spit in Lithuania. It forms a trace of the same coastal arc of sandy dunes that is common in this part of the Baltic Sea.

Statue of Neptune, by the main pier in Hel. This is touted as being an exact replica, done in stone, of the bronze statue in Bologna, Italy. I can’t imagine that it was placed here to compete with the Neptune statue in Gdańsk.

Next to the statue is something everyone should experience: the largest amber sculpture in the world, of Hel Lighthouse. Indeed, posted nearby is the Guinness World Record certificate.

Hel is a full-on tourist town, which must be crammed with people in the summer season. Already the beaches are well populated with sunburnt bodies, baking in the sand. Eat some fish at one of the innumerable restaurants and to the north end of town, to the Seal Sanctuary. It is a really simple setup, just a few pools with seals that were brought in due to injuries, and some explanations about locations of seal colonies on the peninsula.

The main drag in Hel.

South of town, through some thick forests, is Hel Lighthouse, an active, 42 meter tall lighthouse built in 1942 (to replace an earlier, smaller version).

Though it is an operating lighthouse, it is possible to pay for a trip to the top.

Walking south from here to the southern tip of the peninsula, there are quite a lot of people, biking and camping. A clear military theme prevails as we approach a number of WWII defensive fortifications, hidden in the forest.

This concrete tower was empty, but other bunkers and fortified turrets nearby had been co-opted by groups that somehow have the concession to charge entry. Plenty of flags around these, along with camouflage netting and patriotic music blaring from speakers.

The metal frame over this gun was probably designed to support camouflage such as tree branches.

The water was really cold but I’m sure it didn’t matter, as there aren’t so many months of the year Poles can sit on a warm beach.

Back to Gdańsk, eat our second meal of dumplings.

Poland